Rosanna Dell 10/9/24 Rosanna Dell 10/9/24

Pixie Pumpkins

These miniature spun cotton pumpkins are simple to make, require only a few inexpensive supplies, and come together quickly - making them a nice little project to do with kids and creative friends, or a sweet party favor for your next ladies’ get-together or luncheon.

I suppose luncheons are a little out of date but I still enjoy meeting with my sister and mom and some close friends every so often - we might not eat chicken casserole or anything involving a gelatin mold and usually we’re in garden clothes and I have a least a little hay in my hair but we do drink something hot and enjoy a bite of something together and my daughter Nettie loves to set the table for these special times - and I know she’d be thrilled to have a whole set of pixie pumpkins to use for our next girls lunch. So that’s my goal, to get another three or four of these pixie pumpkin place card holders made by the end of this month because that will give us a good excuse to get together. Sometimes you have to create an occasion, right? Otherwise we all just keep slogging and slogging and never stop to take an hour to enjoy one another…

Now I don’t expect all of you to be a fan of the hot pink pumpkins but obviously the making process for any color of pumpkin is exactly the same and you’re free to be as traditional or as wacky as you like with the paint and decoration.. in this blog post I’ll be demonstrating how I made these larger place card holders which are built around a small stone inside - but you can size down a bit and leave out the rock to make a simple, smaller pumpkin decoration. I show how to do this in my pixie pumpkin video on YouTube with Nettie - and the second part of that video shows video footage of making these place card holders so if it’s easier for you to watch and follow along, please do refer to that make-along.

this is our patch of “natural beauties” :)

the place cards pictured above are available as a digital download here

To make your pixie pumpkins, you’re going to need a few pretty basic supplies and then there are different options and variations for what can be used so be creative and use what you have!

You’ll need:

cotton balls or other cotton fiber such as cotton punis, cotton fill from pill or vitamin bottles, or loose fiber cotton batting (I recommend just starting with cotton balls if you’re new to spun cotton but if you’d like to invest in some nicer fiber, I use these punis from The Woolery and this fill fiber from Amazon

cotton quilt batting (optional but handy, it’s what I use for this post but I show how to make pumpkins using only cotton balls in the YouTube video)
aluminum foil - I save and reuse wrappers from chocolate bars but kitchen foil will work too
Elmer’s glue or any white school glue or PVA glue (tackier craft glues don’t work as well for the glue mix in my opinion because they will make the cotton so sticky and difficult to work with but they are handy for other parts of this project if you don’t have hot glue)
wire of some sort - for the place card holders the wire will be visible so something you like the look of - for the regular pumpkins the wire will be covered so you can use anything, including a twist tie or pipe cleaner or whatever you have
jute twine or string - if you don’t have wire and you’re making a regular pixie pumpkin that won’t be a place card holder, you can use jute twine or string for the pumpkin stem (I demonstrate this in the YT video)
a few rocks or stones if you’re making the weighted place card holders
scissors
paint of some kind - watercolor, gouache, or acrylic
paintbrushes
a toothpick
masking tape
hot glue (optional)
mod podge or other sealant (optional)
optional: mica flakes or mica dust or glitter if you like or metallic paints or any glittery, shimmery product you enjoy

Okay, let’s get started - and if all these photos and words(!) overwhelm you, I do invite you to watch the video first as many of us do learn better that way - and then you can come back here and reference this for anything you’ve forgotten or need to see again.

To start, cut a longish length of wire, about 12 to 16 inches to be safe, and then take your rock and wrap the wire around it at least twice. I don’t knot the wire but you can if you want to - I rely on the foil to hold it in place.

Then take your aluminum foil and crumple or wrap that around your stone until you get the size and shape you want - it might take a few layers depending on the size of your stone and how big you want your pumpkin to be. Keep in mind that that batting and cotton will add to its size - it will grow at least a quarter inch across if not more with the cotton.

go ahead and bend down what’s left of the wire, I like to make a spiral shape - so that it’s out of the way and not catching on things

Then you take your quilt batting and cut a few strips, at least a quarter inch thick, or maybe closer to 3/8 inch. That’s what I did anyway - these will be the sections or “ribs” of the pumpkin, so it’s up to you how thick you want them. Then I pull those long strips into shorter pieces, you can see the size of them in the photo carousel below — you will need between ten and fifteen of these to cover your pumpkin base (number will of course depend on the size of your pumpkin and the width of your strips so I’m just giving what worked for my pumpkins).

If you have a glue gun and don’t mind working with it, this will save you a little time - put a bead of hot glue near the stem or wire at the top of your pumpkin and press the end of a strip into it, then make a bead of hot glue at the bottom of the pumpkin and attach the strip there. Make sure the strip is fairly tight and holding firm or it might wrinkle during the next step when you apply the cotton and glue wash over the top.

If you don’t have hot glue, this same process can be done with school glue or any craft glue - just make a line of glue all the way down the pumpkin for each strip - and then you will need to hold your pumpkin carefully as you work as the wet glue means the batting pieces can move or slide. I did experiment with it and it worked fine but you will have to be more delicate and patient. You might also want to let the glue set partially or fully before going on to cover it with cotton and glue wash.

IF YOU DON’T HAVE QUILT BATTING — please refer to the YouTube video - in the first portion with Nettie, we make pumpkins without batting and you can follow that technique to make a pumpkin using only cotton balls or other cotton fiber.

Attach strips of cotton batting with glue or hot glue until your pumpkin is fully covered. Make sure you leave a small crack between each piece so that your pumpkin will have indentations.

*** The reason I pull the batting apart into pieces rather than cutting is that it leaves a smaller, frayed end and these ends meet together more smoothly at the top and bottom of the pumpkin. If you cut your ends square, the ends will overlap at the top and bottom and will look clunky and make a knobby lump which will make it hard for your pumpkin to sit flat.

make sure your pumpkin is sitting fairly flat and level before you continue - if it’s not, trim some of the batting

Here’s where we need our glue mix - so if you haven’t worked with spun cotton before, the glue mix is typically just school glue and water. I use a mix of one part glue to four parts water, so about one tablespoon of glue to four tablespoons of water. There are other ways people do it and other glue wash ratios and things people use (such as potato starch) but this is what I’ve had success with.

I use an old cheap craft brush for applying my glue wash - you can find something suitable in a big pack at a discount or craft store or you can often find craft brushes at secondhand stores.

If you have cotton balls, unwind a few of them and then pull them into small, thin pieces. Take one of these thin pieces and lay it over the gap between two pieces of batting, then use your brush to smooth it down, covering the foil and also the batting. You will probably need to cover each section with a few pieces of cotton to fully cover the foil. If you have other cotton fiber, you do the same thing, just pulling off small, thin pieces of fiber to work with so that your layers are smooth and not lumpy.

Continue applying small, thin pieces of cotton until your pumpkin is completely covered. I completely cover the pumpkin with cotton fiber. The batting should take paint like the cotton fiber but it might not look exactly the same or might turn darker or lighter than the cotton fiber so to avoid patchiness, I cover all the batting.

*** Your pumpkin should be damp but not sodden or dripping. If your cotton is absolutely saturated with glue wash, you’re using much more than you would need to and this will make your drying time much longer - you might also find that your pumpkin flattens on the bottom if it’s too wet so when applying the glue wash, you’re going for damp but not wet.

Check again to see that your pumpkin sits flat.

Now you need to wrap your wire to form the stem. But if this step intimidates you or you find it too difficult, I think the plain wire looks fine as well. It’s slightly more modern looking or stylized, but it works in my opinion. I wrapped most of my pumpkin stems with cotton but there are other options.

It’s possible to wrap the wire with jute twine if you have it. Simply pull the jute apart into the three strands and take one of these strands. Attach the end at the base of the wire with hot glue and then wrap tightly until you reach what you want to be the top and secure with more hot glue. If it’s not thick enough you can repeat that process again.

Fabric scraps can also be use to wrap the wire and you can use hot glue or glue wash to secure the fabric. Batting would also work. Cotton kitchen twine can be used to make spirals to look like the ends of vine.

To wrap with cotton, just take a longish piece of cotton fiber and hold the end with your finger against the top of the pumpkin, then wrap tightly, using your brush to apply a little glue wash, moving up the piece of wire until you reach the top. I like to spin the very end into a spiral to look like a vine. Add more cotton if it’s not as thick as you want yet and a bit more glue wash if any of the fiber is still dry.

You’ll probably want to add just a few small pieces at the base of the stem to blend the stem and pumpkin body together. Take very very small pieces of cotton and wrap once around the stem base and smooth them out onto the top of the pumpkin. This gives a more natural look, rather than the stem looking slightly disconnected from the pumpkin.

You’ve made it to the instant gratification portion of the make - painting :) Now I prefer to paint while the cotton is still wet but you may be a sticky mess and want to wait or maybe you prefer to paint dry.. If so, that’s fine and I’ll address drying in a moment - everything I’ve demonstrated for pixie pumpkins has used watercolors for painting - I chose watercolors for the smaller, more naturally-colored pumpkins I made in the YouTube video because I can mix colors and dilute them a lot and that gave me more realistic shades.. I have a lot of acrylic craft paint and I probably could have mixed colors and diluted with a lot of water to get more of the colors I wanted but it would have taken more paint and more time than the watercolor. I also like that I can mottle the colors and make yellow spots or add a little brown or green and darker patches if I want to, more easily than I could with acrylic.

I used a mix of opera rose and rose madder watercolors to make these pink place card holders but since the color is more monochromatic, I think a hot pink acrylic paint that’s diluted a little could give a similar effect. Gouache would work well too and you could use much the same way as watercolor. I think when I make more of these, I’ll try teal or aqua and a mustard color :)

Painting is, I think, pretty self-explanatory- the only thing I would say is that if you paint wet on wet with watercolor, you can experience bleeding - some of it you might like and some you may not. If that happens, you can take plain water and dilute out or bleed out the color from the spot you don’t want it, and then go back in with the color you do. If you can’t correct it this way, you can try to cover over with a little acrylic paint.

I’ve brushed on mica dust on top of wet paint and afterwards and it absorbs a bit more and is softer and more subtle when applied to wet cotton. It’s more metallic and shimmery applied when the paint and cotton has dried.

To dry your pumpkins, you can either let things dry naturally, or you can dry in a warm oven or toaster oven. Setting damp items near a heating vent or radiator will speed things up considerably. Even if you are air drying, you might want to set your pumpkin on a little piece of parchment paper to help prevent sticking. Air drying times vary a lot depending on season and humidity and how wet your cotton was to start … it might dry overnight, it might take 24 hours, it might take 2 days..

If you want to dry more quickly, I heat up my oven to 300 and then turn it off and set things in on a cool plate on a piece of parchment and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes or more. That’s usually enough time to feel completely dry but you can leave in for an hour (with the oven OFF, be sure). You can also use a toaster oven - I would suggest at 250 or lower - 200 might be better and start with 10 minutes and check every 5 minutes after that.

Check your pumpkin after ten minutes in the oven and tip it up to see if the bottom is sticking. If it has and some fibers pull loose, simply dab them back down with your glue wash mix and your brush and then tip it on its side to continue drying. You can also make a little platform of toothpicks to set the pumpkin on so that less surface can stick to the plate.

mica dust can be added before or after drying, depending on what sort of effect you want

Once your pumpkin is dry, you can add mica dust or flakes or glitter or anything you like - you can also do a layer of mod podge or your favorite sealant.

For the mica dust and flakes, I just use a little glue wash on the pumpkin top and then brush on the dust or sprinkle on the flakes.

I wouldn’t use mod podge over mica flakes as you’ll lose the texture of the flakes.

I rarely use a sealant on things I keep for myself… but I do recommend Aleene’s spray finish and use that for things I sell.

Your little pixie pumpkin place card holder is ready to use :)

Hope you’ll have lots of fun making one or two or a dozen!

You can find these place cards as a digital download in my shop here.

I love to see what you make - please do share with me on Instagram @rosannadellart or you can email me : sweethavensanctuary@gmail.com

happy making to you!

xo,

Rosanna

Rosanna Dell 7/19/24 Rosanna Dell 7/19/24

quick and easy spun cotton strawberry sewing pins

click here to go to the video tutorial :)

These sweet little strawberry pins are definitely the easiest and fastest spun cotton make I’ve shared so far - and because of those things, and because they’re so cute and practical - I also think they’re the most gift-able spun cotton project I’ve yet made.

Spun cotton strawberries have been done and done again and I’d guess they’re probably as old as the craft itself - so maybe it seems silly for me to share this third tutorial about spun cotton strawberries (strawberry ornaments were actually the first spun cotton project I shared on YouTube as a make-along several years ago) —- but strawberries never go out of style, right? They seem to have timeless appeal.

Today I’m putting a little twist on a classic.

I’m really excited about this idea - strawberry sewing pins are the perfect project for beginning with spun cotton - you can have a whole batch of pins in an hour or two, and because you don’t have a ton of time invested, and because they’re so simple to make, they’ll turn out cute no matter what - I’m almost certain you’ll want to share some of your crop of cotton berries with your favorite people…

This is also a great project for older kids who are able to be careful with the pins - my nine-year-old daughter Nettie joined me in making them in the YouTube make-along and hers turned out great!

They look so sweet nestled in a pin cushion. And I think they’ll make wonderful gifts for almost anyone who sews or crafts - I’m hoping to sew some strawberry pin cushions and needle minders to go with them as gifts - or you could give a little cluster of them in a vintage pin cushion you find at a thrift store - or just tuck several into a pretty scrap of old fabric and tie it up with lace. I honestly can’t think of many people who wouldn’t enjoy some tiny strawberry pins :) and the fact that they’ll be homemade makes them extra special.

To make these strawberry sewing pins, you’ll need:

cotton balls or other cotton fiber

straight pins - the longer the better but preferably 1.5” or longer

school glue like Elmer’s and water (mix your glue and water at 1 part to 3 or 4 parts ratio, so one tablespoon of glue would be mixed with 3 to 4 tablespoons of water)

paint and paintbrushes (I’m using acrylic craft paints today but you can also use watercolor or gouache or a combination of them)

aluminum foil (a good opportunity to recycle clean foil if you save it - i have boxes of chocolate wrappers I keep)

fabric or paper for the tops

wire (for stems, optional)

darning needle (for making a hole for the wire stems)

hot glue or craft glue (optional, not strictly necessary)

scissors

sealant like Aleene’s or Mod Podge (optional)

One thing I learned as I was making these is that there are multiple lengths of sewing pins out there - it seems like the most common sizes are 1.5 and 1.75 inches - use whatever you have that’s the longest!

begin by using a little hot glue to secure the pin head to the foil

Take your straight pin and a very small piece of foil (I always use the foil wrappers from the dark chocolate I eat but you can use any clean (as in nothing that would spoil), dry aluminum foil - place a small amount of hot glue on the edge of the foil and then lay the pin head into the hot glue and close the foil around the pin head, forming it into the shape of a small strawberry. Mine are quite small - they will grow when you add cotton so keep that in mind.

NOTE: Keep the foil shape as near the top of the pin as you can, to preserve as much of the pin length as possible. If you build your strawberry shape down around the pin length, you’ll be left with a very short, stubby pin that can be displayed in a pin cushion, but might not be long enough to use in fabric or pin into a needle book.

brush a little of the glue mix onto the foil shape

Now it’s time to add the cotton fiber - you can use cotton balls like you buy at the drug store, which is what I’ve used today - or you can use cotton quilt batting or the nicer spinning fibers if you have them, like cotton punis or sliver which you can find at The Woolery or Cotton Clouds or you can find those fibers in a starter kit in my shop.

Brush some of your glue mixture onto the foil shape and then take a small amount of your cotton fiber and wrap it tightly around the foil, using your brush to push the fibers down into shape. You only need as much cotton as it takes to cover the foil and achieve the shape you like - probably just a pinch or two from a cotton ball.

This is the size my berries end up - a little less than half an inch across.

Now you’ll probably want to make at least a few more while you’re at it so you can do all the painting and details in one go.

Once you have a handful or a saucer-full of strawberries it’s time to start painting - I think it’s easiest to paint them while the cotton is still wet or damp - the cotton absorbs the paint better this way. But you can try it both ways and see how you prefer it.

I’m using acrylic craft paint today, Folkart and Decoart Americana brands and I have a primary red and lipstick red color. The white is folk art “parchment” and the green I chose is “light avocado” by Americana.

I like to paint while the cotton fibers are wet but experiment and see what you like :)

Paint how you like - you can add white to the top or tip, or splotches of yellow or darker red, or if you want a primitive look you can age with some tea or coffee. You could do some green strawberries if you like that idea! (I wish I had thought of that before this moment haha)

I dry the berries before I paint on the white seeds so they don’t bleed. You can air dry for several hours or overnight or dry in your oven or toaster oven. I set the toaster oven on 250 for 5 or ten minutes for something this small. Or you can heat the oven up to 300 and turn it off and set the berries in for 30 minutes or so. Setting things over a heating vent or radiator speeds things up too.

NOTE: If you have trouble with spun cotton pieces sticking to the plate as you dry in the oven, a very good suggestion from a follower was to cut a raw potato in half and place the cut side down on your plate, then with these strawberry pins, stick the pin into the potato to dry in the oven. You can use that technique for other spun cotton pieces if you think of it beforehand and build your piece around a dowel or toothpick.. I also find that if your piece is dead-wet, that’s when the worst sticking happens. So try not to use more glue and water mix than is necessary and if your piece is so wet that you can squeeze water out of it if you pinch, you might let it air dry for a bit before using heat. Or add a bit more cotton on top to sop up some of that extra moisture.

While the berries are drying, prepare your tops (if you’re painting fabric or paper). I painted my fabric pieces with the green acrylic paint and then added a dab of coffee and a bit of yellow ochre watercolor.

If you’re using a printed fabric or paper that doesn’t need painted, you can make the tops any time.

I like to cut out the shapes I want, paint, and then dry with the berries. The fabric dries very quickly. You can use pinking shears and cut out a small circle or you can cut the sawtooth pattern yourself in an oval or circle.. or you can cut out strips of sawtooth leaves to wrap around the stem. I cut out individual leaves too. They all looked fine to me and I don’t recommend one over another.

the fabric leaf tops can be painted and then dried with the berries

The seeds can be made lots of ways - you can use a fine brush for tiny seeds or a larger one for larger 'dots’ - a toothpick might also work in a pinch. Or I think white gel pens would work or white sharpies. You can make your seeds other colors besides white too - some people used black pens or sharpies several years ago when we were making strawberry ornaments and they looked great! So feel free to use what you have and experiment.

The seeds are usually dry enough to handle after a few minutes so if you’re adding wire stems to your berries, use a darning needle to punch a hole in the top.

Then insert a small length of wire with hot glue, super glue, or craft or school glue. Add a bit more glue around the wire to attach your fabric or paper leaves. I like to make my tops a bit large or long so that I can “scrunch” the fabric around the stem but you might like the look of a flat top or one that is glued down smoothly.

At this point you can decide if you want to use a sealant - I demonstrated using a matte finish Mod Podge in the YouTube make-along and that seems to work fine. I also use an Aleene’s matte finish spray sealant for other projects and have good results with that. Sealant is not necessary if you don’t have it but for these, since I thought they might get more handling and “use” than some other things I make, I thought it was a nice precaution to preserve the paint or potentially the fabric they are used on.